‘I graduated as a biomedical scientist in 2003 and worked my way up in the NHS to become a cancer diagnostic specialist, so I worked throughout the huge developments in cell screening progammes,’ begins Hana. ‘At the start we could only screen cells on slides until years later molecular testing came in so my background really gave me exposure to look at cellular and skin tissue from all angles.’

Hana was working in cancer diagnostics all the way until 2023 when she decided to move away having nursed her mother through terminal cancer until 2022. Hana explains, ‘my first formulation was just some almond oils I put together in my own bathroom into a body oil that could give her a little bit of self-care at the time as I couldn’t find any trustworthy products on her post chemo reactive skin.’ Upon her mother’s passing Hana began to explore ingredients and the level of greenwashing in mainstream brands ‘we had no trace of cancer in any of our family and my mother was very healthy so it really makes you question everything.’

Later her ‘aha’ moment came when her young son developed devastating eczema all over the face and body; she realised she could utilise her vast knowledge of the complex skin system and bridge the gap into a skincare range having been distraught that doctors just advised her steroids as treatment. Having undergone intense research, a formulation course and consulted a dermatologist friend who advised on anti-inflammatory and emollient, the first Born of Necessity product, the Calm Soothing Barrier Balm with Blue Chamomile launched. ‘The aim of the product was to mimic the effects of a steroid working the same pathways.’ After a week her son’s eczema had faded away and she got similar results from friends and family who tested it on psoriasis and other skin inflammation.

Hana explains her skin barrier approach that lies at the heart of the Born of Necessity range; ‘protecting your skin barrier is like protecting the door otherwise if you don’t protect that door you end up in a revolving cycle of infection and inflammation.’

So as a biomedical scientist with years of experience, what exactly is her formulation process?

Hana enthuses, ‘I work all my formulas retrospectively. I don’t look at the skin surface, I look at how all the cells communicate as that is the only way you can build the cells from within. I explain it to consumers with the analogy of a person sitting on a sofa drinking a protein shake, that will not build muscle. It is the same with the skin.’

Other hero products from Born of Necessity include the Renew Bakuchiol Serum with Blue Tansy, Restore Replenishing Barrier Balm with Hemp & Oat, and the Nourish Rich Face Balm with Rose and Geranium. I talk to Hana about the rising emergence of Bakuchiol as a plant-based alternative to retinol which I have had severe and stripping reactions to. She concurs ‘there is some confusion around bakuchiol because some mainstream companies are using the oil rather than the plant extract. It is the extract which is what mimics retinol without stripping skin layers. I use pure plant extract that also helps with collagen production and skin stimulation –it also helps people suffering from rosacea.’

Born of Necessity takes a refreshingly simplistic approach to skincare, ‘I am not looking to create lots of products targeted at different skin concerns, the skin doesn’t work like that. If you look after your skin barrier and the natural microbiome your skin will be happy – you have to work with the skin’s natural biology.’ Hana determines.

Born of Necessity works with a range of unique botanical goodies including tumeric, black soap, non-nano zinc oxide, and even rosemary and argan oil in a hair oil for sensitive scalps. Hana explains her fascination with how botanicals really work together has led her to US based mentor, the famed Susan Parker, author of the bestselling Power of the Seed, who teaches of the structure of the oil and how they bond together. She laughs, ‘sometimes in middle of night I will get up to attend a session with her. I want to fully understand the affinity of the ingredients as an end product. I also look at the clinical data and how the ingredients are proven from an epigenic point of view.’

All Born of Necessity products are sourced and made in the UK, so ingredient heritage is integral to the brand’s transparency, as well as being waterless avoiding the necessity for preservatives. Whilst Hana is looking to expand brand reach she is currently busy working with the University of Huddersfield testing cancer patients, so she can create a line specifically for cancer sufferers to support them on their journey. ‘It will be different ingredients from the main line and tested specifically on cancer cell proliferation.’

With Hana’s encyclopaedic knowledge of skin cells and intense research process, Born of Necessity is a win win range you can fully trust in a confused beauty landscape.

www.bornofnecessity.co.uk

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‘I think it’s become very hard for people to navigate the beauty industry; for consumers to find products they really trust, understand and enjoy using,’ begins Daniel Collins. I note that my way into Forest Spa Finland was their focus on stress; whilst so many mainstream brands are offering quick fix ‘anti-ageing’ products, none are addressing cortisol as what belies the ageing process. Daniel concurs, ‘that is what our whole brand ethos is built around. Finland is consistently ranked the world’s happiest country and it is easy to see why. The modern life of pollution, radiation, lack of sleep, and daily commute is so in contrast to the purity and restorative Nordic forests full of the most wondrous adaptogenic plants and rich in protective compounds.’

Whilst the Scandinavian approach to health and wellbeing might have become mainstream in the past few years – terms such as ‘Hygge’ meaning ‘cosy’ have now been globally adopted as a soft, simple-pleasure way of living – yet few understand the differentiations between the Scandi regions. If Danish skincare focuses on ‘Hygge’ and skin barrier protection in formulas, and Nordic skincare addresses intense hydration due to extreme, harsh climates, Finland has always celebrated inner resilience and the power of its arctic botanicals.

Daniel explains, ‘I have been going to Finland for over 30 years, we even have a little summer house there where it is part of the local culture to jump in the lake and then spend time in the sauna,’ he adds, ‘it’s really a time where I feel disconnected from the stresses of life but nor is it a quick fix break, I find complete cell-deep replenishment which lives on in my mind, body and mood.’ He continues, ‘then I became obsessed with exploring the local produce like the wild harvested cloudberry, birch sap, Finnish oat kernel oil, Bilberry Seed oil.’ Daniel adds, ‘and I began to become invested in the Finnish tradition of ‘sisu’ which means resilience. In Finnish culture if you are born there, you are born with ‘sisu,’ an inner strength.’

Forest Spa Finland launched with formulations that ‘bridge the gap connecting inner wellness and outer beauty,’ through local Finnish ingredients infused with resilience-supporting adaptogens and the ‘sisu’ philosophy. ‘Our Forest Spa Finland concept is about building resilience into daily life, into your skincare routine, into your bathroom wherever you are in the world and bringing a little of the forest magic to you,’ says Daniel.

As someone who has had much stress in my life and suffers severe anxiety often leading to psoriasis, I was intrigued to find a skincare range that incorporated adaptogens into the topical formulas, having experimented with everything from CBD and glycerine drops to vortex healing. ‘I began looking into adaptogens and discovered their history – Vikings were considered to have taken them since they were living in such harsh climates. And I looked at physiology and psychology, which ones had skin applications and that is how we came to launch the first product the Nordic Adaptogen supplement, which is full of four full spectrum Nordic blends with piperine, chaga, wild berry, rhodiola rosea and pine bark,’ Daniel enthuses. ‘Our concept begins from within that translates to the skin easily and then we wanted a topical approach too; how do you combat stress related effects on the skin – dullness, sensitivity, ageing.’

The curated edit begins with two cleansers Nordic Dream Rejuvenating Cleanser, an evening cleanser to deeply restore, replenish skin from stress and rebalance the microbiome. And the Nordic Light Revitalising Cleanser aimed at supporting the skin in natural transition from overnight recovery to daytime glow. Generally, I find cleansers are either too heavy and clog on the skin surface or don’t reach deep into the skin epidermis; I have found great results from both these products but at a time when my skin is suffering with the transitional harsh weather the Nordic Dream Rejuvenating Cleanser delivers in cleansing, balancing my jittery hormones and with each use transports one away from the pressures of city life with a sensory moment of peace and tranquility. Ingredients include oat kernel oil (high in ceramides and phospholipids to protect from stressors), spruce extract (neutralises free radicals from pollution, UV, oxidative stress) and Reconnecting Nature, a proprietary forest-floor microbial extract along with Nordic botanicals like yarrow and nettle.

The products work well individually but are ideally designed as a ritual set so the Nordic Adaptogen Serum is a lightly textured product, which warmly cupped into the hands glides into the skin, whilst offering a moment of pause with its forest aroma. Cloudberry, Siberian Ginseng, Rhodiola Rosea, Seabuckthorn Oil, spruce knot are just some of the high potency, resilience supporting ingredients. The Nordic Adaptogen Serum is workable alone but has additional efficacy when used with the ‘sealant’ Nordic Light Protective Moisturiser SPF 20, a lightweight nourishing moisturiser powered by advanced UV filters, Nordic oils, adaptogens and antioxidant-rich botanicals so it super-hydrates (a trio of nourishing sea buckthorn, oat, wild bilberry replenish moisture and essential lipids), super-defends (three advanced photostable UV filters create a lightweight, transparent veil of broad-spectrum SPF protection against UVA+UVB exposure), super-repairs (a potent blend of Nordic plant support rich in naturally occurring antioxidants, lipids, phytonutrients).

I note to Daniel how adaptogens feel like long term effect over quick fixes, he agrees, ‘they build balance in the body over time.’ He also notes that all the Forest Spa Finland products are designed to work with the skin’s natural microbiome but that the ‘Reconnecting-Nature patented microbial extract in the evening cleanser is an active innovation that is traditionally used in products for children in Finland who don’t go outside much in the winter due to the harsh weather so it helps their immunity.’

As earlier mentioned, I note the transportative quality of the Forest Spa Finland products, ‘that is very deliberate we worked hard to achieve that. I worked closely with an elderly well known Finnish aromatherapist to create natural forest aromatics that give that anti-stress moment.’

Since all the products are sourced and formulated locally in Finland, ingredient heritage is inherent in the Forest Spa Finland range yet Daniel admits that stress is still a term not medically credited yet, ‘I just think no one has actually gone out and done an EU wide funded study on adaptogens so it can actually be claimed. I realise there is still work to be done to educate people on the power of adaptogens which we are trying to do through the skincare.’

What are the future plans?

We have just launched in Asia and are getting a lot of product requests from over there. We are developing more to the range but don’t want to create an endless multi-step routine of products though. We are focusing on body functional experience and how we can transport people to the Nordic forests through the products,’ adds Daniel, ‘I really think that is where the beauty industry is going; authentic brands will be founded in community places like saunas and bathing houses.’

Forestspafinland.com

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‘Our Energising Shampoo, one of our first products launched, established the Mods Beauty approach which remains unchanged: give each product a clear purpose and show customers how the products fit together,’ Sara continues, ‘it combines Serenoa repens, ginseng, yarrow, and chilli pepper extract with biotin, developed for weak, fine hair with an emphasis on cleansing and a lightweight feel and designed to fit comfortably into daily life.’

Mods Beauty aims to create a return to slower rhythms and ritual based beauty: for instance, the energising shampoo was designed to work with the intensive scalp lotion – a leave in scalp-care-step with botanicals and plant stem cell derived extracts (such as hops, mallow, Vitis vinifera extract).

What knowledge around haircare could Sara translate into the skincare products?

‘The scalp is living skin, so haircare encouraged me to think carefully about cleansing, comfort and consistent care. It is useful to distinguish the visible hair shaft, which consists of keratinised cells, from the follicle, which is a living structure,’ she continues, ‘facial skin has its own needs, and our formulation partners approach it accordingly. What carries across is our philosophy: begin with a specific concern, give each product a clear role and make the routine easy to follow. I want customers to understand both why they are choosing a product and how it belongs in their daily care.’

The first Mods Beauty skincare product formulated was Snail Repair Cream, fusing snail secretion filtrate, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and allantoin.

‘I wanted a moisturising cream with a comfortable texture that could earn its place in a simple daily routine. The focus was hydration, softness and skin comfort, with a lightweight feel that also works well before makeup.’

What knowledge around haircare could Sara translate into the skincare products?

‘The snail secretion filtrate is included for its moisturising and skin-conditioning properties. Hyaluronic acid complements that role by helping retain moisture, while aloe vera and allantoin contribute to the formula’s focus on skin comfort. The cream is designed to leave skin feeling softer and more supple, with a lightweight texture that is easy to include in everyday care.’

Other bestselling Mod Beauty skincare products include Jalufiller – Intensive Lifting Serum with Hyaluronic Acid & Argireline a formula derived to soften the appearance of expression lines, which combines argireline with hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, Centella asiatica extract. And is formulated to bring together hydration and skin conditioning for smoother skin. As well as Water Cream – Ultra Hydrating Cream with Jojoba Oil, Anti-Wrinkle Cream – Hexapeptide Anti Cream, and Nutritious Cream – Nourishing Day Cream with Collagen, Elastin and UV filter.

Mods Beauty aims to support consumers with a simple system to ritual driven hair and skincare. ‘Stress can make time for ourselves feel scarce. I want skincare to remain manageable and enjoyable: a few well-chosen steps that people can follow consistently.’

I ask Sara about the challenges of sourcing high-quality botanicals and ingredients as an independent business: ‘One of the main challenges is balancing ingredient quality, reliable supply and the financial sustainability of the business. Strong relationships with formulation and sourcing partners are essential,’ she adds, ‘I want our language to be clear and specific, including when a certification applies to a particular product. Building trust depends on being able to stand behind what we say.’

So, what are the future plans for Mod’s?

‘I want MOD’S to become even clearer in what it offers: personalised haircare rituals that help people choose confidently and care for their hair consistently. Making that selection more intuitive and developing international partnerships that share our approach to quality and service are important priorities. We are already developing new skincare products,’ Sara adds, ‘MOD’S will focus on its haircare identity, while the skincare project will develop its own voice around a philosophy I care deeply about: longevity is a daily choice. For me, that means thoughtful, consistent care and routines people can understand and enjoy over time.’

Modsbeauty.com

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As a born and bred Londoner who grew up imbibing the culture of the city long before wellness, natural alternative medicine or even conversations around mental health were mainstream, my way into Adaptogenic Apothecary was the sister’s experiences with hormonal changes and life trauma before there were natural remedies available, ‘I had been unconsciously exploring alternative paths since my 20’s at a time when the UK normalised disconnection and even alcohol as remedies,’ begins Paris, ‘however in lockdown, having worked in stressful corporate business for a long time, and suffering perimenopausal symptoms my body just exploded. I was rushed to hospital and all I was offered was sedatives.’ That was the catalyst for the sisters to bring together their experiences (Jodie had training in meditation and breathwork) to further explore the potential of adaptogens they had found efficacy from.

Together with medical herbalist, Sara Rooney, who specialises in female health and hormones, they created the hero formula, Harmony; ‘the world’s first menstrual cycle supplement that supports each phase of the menstrual cycle with targeted adaptogens, mushrooms and botanicals. We created this for our personal use, but our friends started asking us if they could try and then friends of friends and next we had a business.’

As mushrooms have become a social media trend, I comment on how I find the misinformation surrounding fungi and even entheogen (that one mushroom experience can undo years of past stored trauma) dangerous; they concur, ‘As a herbalist with a degree in herbal Medicine and postgraduate training in mycotherapy, my work with medicinal mushrooms is grounded in biochemistry, pharmacology and an understanding of how these compounds interact with human physiology, she continues, ‘My approach is looking at how medicinal mushrooms can be used to support health and optimise vitality. Mushrooms have been part of our food and medicine for millennia. I look at how constituents behave in the body, how they influence pathways such as neuroplasticity, immune modulation and gut–brain signalling, and how they can be integrated safely alongside a person’s wider support.’  The founders add, ‘This is the same evidence‑aware approach that informs Adaptogenic Apothecary. When I work with functional mushrooms like Lion’s Mane, we look at the chemistry. The fruiting body provides beta‑glucans and hericenones, while dual extracts concentrate both water‑soluble polysaccharides and alcohol‑soluble diterpenoids such as erinacines. Understanding these constituents, their absorption, their interactions and their limitations allow me to formulate products that are effective, physiologically grounded and realistic in their claims.’

As someone who has gone through extreme trauma and lives with daily anxiety as a result, I have gone through an intense healing process to try and unravel the brain’s mis-wiring. Although I have found instant relief from CBD products, my way into Adaptogenic Apothecary was how daily use could integrate nervous system relief and more joy into life in the long term. I have found profound benefits from daily use of the Exhale Relaxing Glycerite Drops, made from Reishi mushroom dual extract, Chamomile, Rose buds, Lavender and other goodies for dropping the body into a relaxed state. Tart to taste but effective they can also be dropped into a drink of choice.

I talk to the sisters about my experience of psoriasis during extremely stressful periods and how Adaptogenic Apothecary formulas can realign energy and flow. They are incisive, ‘in our experience psoriasis is strongly linked to chronic stress physiology; adaptogenic apothecary formulations are designed to support the nervous system, modulate inflammation, and help to shift the body out of constant alarm state.’ For example, reishi, cordyceps and saffron all play a role in that process; ‘reishi supports parasympathetic activation, helps calm-over-firing stress pathways and gentle modulates immune activity. Cordyceps works more on energy regulation and resilience, supporting mitochondrial function and helping the body recover from long periods of depletion. And saffron has evidence around mood regulation, supporting healthier neural signalling, which can be helpful when stress has created looping fear-based patterns.’

I was also interested in Sara Rooney’s (the medical herbalist) past experiences working with shaman and how ancient wisdoms can be elevated with modern science; she explains, ‘During my time in Ecuador working with an Indigenous rainforest‑protection project, I met the community shaman responsible for propagating and collecting the medicinal plants used within their culture. With over 15 years of clinical experience, I’ve seen how emotions, long‑term stress and dysregulated nervous‑system patterns can manifest physiologically; raising inflammation, disrupting endocrine balance and contributing to symptoms. Herbs and adaptogens don’t remove karmic blocks but they can support the body’s capacity to regulate itself in the long term.’

Other targeted formulations include: Freedom, Power, Calm, Peace, all full of 100% natural ingredients, vegan adaptogen and functional mushrooms with no synthetic vitamins or fillers. And other alcohol-free Glycerites including Inhale and Protect.

Adaptogenic Apothecary stands apart from the saturation of online wellness companies largely because apart from the transparent, trustworthy ranges, the sisters are so receptive about the challenges of the modern world for women of all ages and stages. I put to Paris and Jodie how I’ve noticed that women are experiencing perimenopausal/menopausal symptoms so early and it’s difficult to tell that apart from everyday stresses. ‘I don’t think it is coincidental that the generation experiencing peri and menopause now are the generation of women who were sold the ‘you can have it all’ narrative. There has never been a generation of women who were expected to do so much and do it without a village to support them,’ they incisively comment. Going back to the first product developed Harmony ‘a four-phase approach to menstrual cycle and perimenopause support. The starting point was recognising that we don’t necessarily feel the same throughout the month, so why approach our needs as though we do? We wanted to acknowledge that changing energy throughout the 4 phases of the cycle: menstruation, follicular, ovulation and luteal, and create something more thoughtful around it, drawing on medical herbal knowledge.’ Harmony comes in a 28-day powder box with easy-to-use sachets for each stage of the cycle.

Adaptogenic Apothecary is meeting the moment building not just a product range but encouraging community; they have started a monthly online women’s circle and regularly share recipes to help people see how these magical tinctures can fit into their day.

They finish, ‘Our ambition is to reach as many people as possible with our formulas, while helping them reconnect with something much older: the relationship between people, plants and the knowledge passed between generations. We believe plant-based medicine firmly belongs in the future.’

adaptogenicapothecary.com

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‘My husband actually started Euphoric Rain in early 2024 because he has long been passionate about small, local business but I took it over in August 2025 because I have had long term skin reactions and concerns and I wanted to grow it,’ explains Aisha.

After suffering allergic reactions that doctors recommended antibiotics for, she became really discerning about ingredients and began to notice the amount of greenwashing from luxury brands. ‘When Euphoric Rain started there weren’t many products made in the UK and a lot of mainstream brands were quietly sourcing from China or elsewhere, whilst the facial oils on the market were really pricey,’ continues Aisha.

As someone who suffers from sensitive skin and breakouts from harsh ingredients, I was fascinated to find an all-in-one facial oil that incorporated so many goodie botanicals; patchouli, sandalwood, jojoba, rosehip oil, ‘it is elevated by formulating them together. You get four main different benefits; the rosehip oil tones and improves skin texture and reduces dullness, the jojoba oil moisturises and helps skin healing, the sandalwood is an effective anti-inflammatory with anti-ageing properties and patchouli softens signs of scarring and fine lines,’ Aisha adds, ‘I don’t like complex routines and think that consumers are being misled into how many products you need in a morning and evening routine.’

I was intrigued how a formulation balancing so many ingredients – cherry kernel, sweet almond, avocado oil are also in there – could be created in a lightweight texture that nourished into the skin layers rather than sit on the surface.

I have taken to carrying around the Rejuvenating Facial Oil in my bag topping up daily and even using on the thin skin on the hands particularly in these harsh winter months.

It is such a versatile product, ‘I think consumers have this mindset around facial oils having thick textures that we want to transcend,’ says Aisha.

After such positive consumer feedback, she now has her eye on creating a similar all in one hair oil as well as leaning into her husband’s passion for collecting perfumes and create a Euphoric Rain scent seamlessly leaning into the same multi-botanical approach.

Euphoric Rain is one to watch!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Euphoric-Rain-Rejuvenating-Anti-ageing-Anti-wrinkle/dp/B0D96X8GFC

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‘The idea for Chiiso Botanics really stems from the passing of my grandmother at 96years,’ begins Mufadzi, ‘I had been brought up by her for much of my early life in the bush; she was a herbalist (before it became a term) and was relied on by the whole community, particularly as we lived through civil war so there was no medical help, and if local children developed conditions like asthma or eczema, she would be who they turned to.’

Mufadzi explains that her grandmother was a central force in her life and much of her memories revolve around the native marula tree her grandmother had in her backyard and the harvesting season (in April), where astoundingly 400kg of marula fruit per tree is acquired. Mufadzi paints a vivid picture; the epochal story of the drunk elephant (a mainstream skincare brand named after it) of animals sitting under the tree teetering from too much marula consumption, and the female pickers going out to grab the fruit from the ground before it ferments in this rainy season.

Whilst Chiiso Botanics might be inherently connected to its source ingredient, the path from tree and fruit harvest to the first product, the 100% Virgin Marula Facial Oil, has been a complex one. ‘I knew a white Zimbabwean, Gus, who was wholesaling Marula and Baobab to the US and Europe, who taught me about processing marula, but I knew I wanted to go further and create a family run skincare business. Over a period of about a year and a half, I trained in formulating at Formula Botanica and through Gus, I met another South African called Gert, who developed an original style cold press machine for me, and I began to see that I needed to include my family over there in the business to make a go of it,’ explains Mufadzi.

The process is labour intensive: it takes approximately a tonne of the marula nuts cracked open to extract the two kernels inside and to produce around 100litres of the marula oil. ‘They press the oils for me over there and send it to me here in bulk where I formulate as Zimbabwe don’t even have a currency so it’s the easiest way.’

How does the 100% Virgin Marula Facial Oil work with the skin’s natural microbiome to combat signs of ageing and feed the skin from deep within?

‘It’s such a versatile oil which stops you having to buy many products,’ she begins, ‘its high in Oleic acid which is deeply moisturising and absorbing so stops premature ageing. The oil is incredible because it lasts 3-4 years whereas most oils go rancid after about 6 months and that shows how high its antioxidant levels are and how it protects you from oxidation.’

Chiiso Botanics also has created the Super Calm Balm which contains a few other Zimbabwe grown ingredients such as Ximenia oil. ‘I bought the Ximenia oil back from Gus and I’m looking to produce my own – it’s similar in texture to castor oil so thicker than the marula which has a silky feel.’ Other ingredients in that formulation include pomegranate, thistle oil, sea buckthorn extract (inspired by her Danish husband’s hometown), rosehip extract, which work to target breakouts and soothe reactive skin. In this product, I also added a tiny percentage of rose geranium and myrrh essential oils.

Next Chiiso Botanics is producing a range of serums that will target specific concerns, ‘I have had so many requests around pigmentation,’ is all Mufadzi will reveal to me right now. However, the products will all continue to be waterless, vegan and cruelty free.

Ultimately the Chiiso Botanics vision for the future is to support and give back to the struggling Zimbabwean region, both in terms of soil health and ecosystem, and also the skilled artisans of the communities. ‘Whilst for the products we work with wildly harvested trees, I also recently have begun a drive to give the peoples 100 marula seeds and encourage them to plant their own trees in their back garden as my grandmother did.’

Chiiso Botanics is a brand to watch!

www.chiisobotanics.com

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Le Saman skincare arrives in the chicest white gift boxes filled with the ritual set: Eye Glow, Radiance Cream, Vitamin C Serum. It sounds simple but exudes an elegance that is rare to find amongst a saturated beauty market focused on mass marketing. ‘Elegance is the message I want to get out there because the luxury out there comes with such a massive price tag,’ explains Sam, the founder.

Sam absorbed beauty from youth: his mother was a highly trained beautician who instilled in him the ancient wisdoms and tropes of skincare, ‘she always told me to use upward motions when putting on cream as gravity pulls your skin downwards,’ he continues, ‘and that a little of high- quality cream went a long way. I think a lot of these tricks have been lost today.’

During Covid lockdown, like many others, Sam noticed the overload of products consumers were piling on their skin and in return weakening their skin barrier. He also found connection in meditation, spirituality and conscious awareness; new energy, vibration and a moment of pause and reflection he wanted to infuse in Le Saman. ‘It’s like the Arnold Schwarzenegger theory of mind muscle connection; what you put your mind to connects.’

So a few years of research began to find the highest quality ingredients and work out percentages and how formulations could best connect in a lightweight texture base formula.

The first product I tried is the Vitamin C Serum; I have always found Vitamin C products on the market ‘dutiful,’ something that you felt you had to put on and had functional textures. The Le Saman Vitamin C serum is like silk, compromising niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and dual Vitamin C extract which not only easily absorbs but leaves an immediate plump and radiance. Whilst it can be used on its own the texture is light enough to use it daily as a layer underneath the Radiance Cream.

Sam explains ‘the radiance cream is designed to act as a sealant over the Vitamin C serum and it lasts as barrier defence the whole day.’ The Radiance Cream is a lightweight moisturiser – which only needs a very small layer – full of sumptuous Vitamin C, Vit E, Panthenol, Radish root, and other actives for radiant, plumping effect. And the final step is the Eye Glow, a refreshing gel light cream made from caffeine, niacinamide, Vitamin C, antioxidant green tea extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate, a fermented bacteria to support the skin layers and visibly brighten and soften dark circles, crows feet and ageing.

Whilst Le Saman is transparent that the ingredients are sourced and formulated in China, they go through lengthy and rigorous testing, both over there and here in the UK; the Le Saman skincare range is certified both CSPR and by the Oxford Bioscience Lab to make it a fully trustworthy product.

As a sensitive skin sufferer, I have been enjoying the Vitamin C Serum in particular which I carry around in my bag for a little daytime top up when skin is feeling dry and dehydrated. And the lightweight texture of the Radiance Cream means both can be worked together day and evening without breakouts or skin congestion.

What are the future plans for Le Saman?

‘We want to create products slowly, meticulously and with intention so we won’t just churn out new products for the sake of it,’ explains Sam, ‘however in the works at the moment are a cleanser and toner to complete the skin ritual steps, these formulations will work in synergy with the other formulations.’

www.lesaman.com

The post Le Saman skincare appeared first on Davina Catt.

‘I became increasingly overwhelmed by how complicated skincare had become. There was always another product, another trend, another step you were supposedly missing. At the same time, I kept coming back to ingredients and practices I had grown up around as a Nigerian woman – things like African black soap, shea butter and plant-based preparations that have been used within African communities for generations,’ explains Bukola about the seed of the idea for FLORLESS, ‘I wanted to build something rooted in Africa but made for the world.’

As so many mainstream brands seem to be trying to co-opt ancient wisdoms and rituals through marketing and ingredient greenwashing, I was initially drawn to FLORLESS by how genuinely rooted in African heritage the products are, ‘the core of creating FLORLESS was thinking to ourselves how do we formulate, package and present this for a modern consumer without stripping away its identity?’ begins Bukola, ‘African black soap, our first formulation, is a clear example of a product made and used across West Africa for generations. Shea is another example and then we expanded to bring the consumer into ingredients like moringa, hibiscus and our haircare range which includes both African and Ayurvedic traditions.’

As someone with sensitive skin prone to psoriasis and inflammation as well as fully fascinated by rare botanicals and ancient wisdoms, the FLORLESS Liquid African Soap, ‘The African Deep Cleanse,’ was the first product I tried. So far so great; I have always found many mainstream cleansers to either be too cloggy and sit on the skin surface or too ‘natural’ that the skin isn’t thoroughly cleansed before layering on later products. The FLORLESS Liquid African Soap finds a great balance of a sumptuous texture bringing together goodie ingredients like Palm Kernel Oil, Sandalwood, Cocoa Pod Ash that reaches deep into the skin epidermis for removing of impurities whilst calming a reactive skin barrier, ‘from there we began to build the wider body care and wellness world around it.’

FLORLESS utilises these ancient African practices to take a holistic, 360’ approach to skincare – connecting mind, body, skin and wellness. ‘Beauty has become very externally focused – what can I put on my face to correct something? African wellness traditions often give us a much broader lens involving food, plants, bathing, hair, community and everyday practices.’  The body range includes simple but effective formulas, such as The Glow Oil made from botanical goodness like rosehip, sea buckthorn and tamanu, chosen for their different fatty acid profiles and skin conditioning properties. And a haircare line including the Hair Strength and Growth Pomade and Hair Butter Stick that are easy day-to-day botanical formulas to support hair health without the mess of traditional hair butters. Next came the herbal wellness products that Bukola explains ‘I wanted to make it easy for FLORLESS consumers to adopt simple practices that encourage them to be intentional about caring for themselves.’ So, alongside your skin and hair care, take a few moments to sit down with a FLORLESS botanical tea. FLORLESS ‘A Blend for Bloating Herbal Infusion’ caught my eye as belly fat is directly associated with stress: the apothecary formulation includes wild harvested botanicals such as Prekese (Aidan Pod) and warming Uda Seeds, Calabash Nutmeg, Alligator Pepper for internal ease.

As much as FLORLESS is inherently connected to the founder’s African roots and those traditions, I enjoy how conscious Bukola is not to fall into overpromising: ‘our philosophy is much more about supporting the skin rather than making aggressive biological claims. I want FLORLESS to be evidence-aware and transparent about what a cosmetic can realistically do.’

The future for FLORLESS looks exciting.

‘The vision is much bigger than individual products. I want us to introduce people around the world to African ingredients and practices in a way that feels contemporary and elevated, without removing the culture and history that made them interesting in the first place,’ she adds, ‘We’re growing carefully because I don’t want to build a brand that launches something new every five minutes. I want each category to earn its place. Long term, I absolutely see FLORLESS moving beyond being an online independent brand and into major retail.’

Florlessskin.co.uk

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‘I think coming to skincare from outside the traditional beauty industry has shaped Aurora Glo,’ begins Lucy Rees, ‘we’d spent time in the Scandinavia and wider Nordic region and developed a real affection for the landscape, relationship with nature and their tendency to value quality and functionality over excess. I kept discovering these brilliant independent beauty companies with sophisticated products that were hard to find or unknown here so the idea clicked to curate a platform here in the UK rather than starting another skincare brand.’

On the back of niche Scandi region life philosophies such as Hygge (Danish/Norway tradition of coziness in living) and Lagom (Swedish for living a life of balance and mindful moderation) entering into the modern Western world vernacular, the Aurora Glo founders ‘think there is a very good chance Nordic skincare principles might follow suit.’  Lucy muses, ‘I think consumers are becoming tired of complexity. We’ve had years of very active-led skincare: acids, retinoids, exfoliation, layering and increasingly complicated routines. Those ingredients have a place but I think we are seeing a new direction towards barrier health, hydration, sensitivity and consistency,’ she continues, ‘it’s about being more considered about what you do to your skin so I think Lagom is a great analogy to what we are doing at Aurora Glo.’

After intense research and a growing awareness of how UK mainstream brands are greenwashing consumers with claims around ‘natural’ ingredients, Aurora Glo has launched with a curated edit of Nordic skincare brands. For UK consumers it is important to understand that there is a slight differentiation of ingredient focus in skincare formulas between the Scandi regions; for instance, Nordic skincare often leans into marine extracts and cold pressed oils with the aim of protecting skin barrier from the harsh coastal weather. Whereas Finnish skincare is focused around the local forests’ botanicals and arctic spring water. Aurora Glo has launched with two complementary brands Marina Miracle and Flow Cosmetics: Marina Miracle is Norwegian founded by Marina Elisabeth Engervik who experienced atopic eczema and later sensitive, damaged skin from the topical creams she was prescribed, thus leading her to create her own range of facial oils. Growing in demand from consumers noting ‘the miracle’ of the oils, her bestseller products, notably the Herbal Face Oil, contain ceramides alongside its botanical oils to support dry, sensitive and mature skin types.

As Aurora Glo launches, I am here to talk to the founders mainly about Flow Cosmetics, ‘It is a Finnish skincare brand with a broad treatment-led portfolio. We were particularly attracted to its targeted products around sensitive, reactive and compromised feeling skin.’ All ingredients are natural, traceable and Ecocert Cosmos certified. The Flow Cosmetics formulas also address dehydration, ageing, pigmentation, brightness, cleansing, exfoliation. Hero products include the Ceramides & Probiotics Cream, a fragrance and essential oil free formula with Lactobacillus ferment lysate, jojoba oil, squalane, argan oil, arctic black current oil alongside the ceramides (naturally part of the skin’s barrier structure and help reduce moisture loss) and probiotics. The Propolis & Probiotics Rescue cream, a richer product with hemp seed oil, tea tree and lavender essential oil, sea buckthorn oil alongside the Hikia’s propolis extract amongst others, used to calm irritated skin and strengthen the barrier. And the Hyaluron & Probiotics Serum ‘the ingredient list is revealing of the transparency and precision of Flow Cosmetics formulas; the flower water comes first, followed by fermented ingredients, glycerin, bilberry seed oil and then the hyaluronic component, rather than the product simply being a conventional water-based HA serum dressed up with a Nordic botanical story.’

As a sensitive skin sufferer who has undergone extreme stress and anxiety, I have seen the effects on the skin from poor gut health and immunity so the Flow Cosmetics focus on probiotics in many of the core products was my way into the brand: Lucy explains, ‘We’re not talking about applying a pot of live yoghurt-like bacteria to the face. Flow Cosmetics’ ingredient lists include ferments, ferment filtrates and lysates, including Lactobacillus ferment lysate and Leuconostoc/radish-root ferment filtrate. For us, that distinction is important because we want Aurora Glo to talk about microbiome skincare without turning an exciting emerging area of skin science into exaggerated marketing claims.’

Aurora Glo aims to create a curated edit of brands that reflect the Nordic approach to clean, natural ingredients and longevity but work with modern science for added efficacy. For instance, the Flow Cosmetics Hyaluron & Probiotics Serum combines two molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid to address hydration at different levels, alongside rose water, wild bilberry seed oil and fermented ingredients ‘so the higher molecular weight HA works predominantly at the surface whilst the lower molecular weight component provides deeper hydration.’

As the UK is sometimes referred to for its ‘wild west’ like ingredient regulations compared to the much sharper standards in the EU/US, I wondered if the founders had noticed sourcing or standardisation differences? The founders note that the UK requires strict documentation for brands entering but believe that many Nordic brands such as those featuring on Aurora Glo ‘voluntarily set themselves additional standards around ingredient sourcing, formulation philosophy, certification and transparency,’ they continue ‘Flow Cosmetics is a good example because COSMOS certification provides an independent framework around natural and organic formulation rather than simply relying on a company describing itself as ‘clean’ or ‘natural.’

Lucy muses, ‘We also want to preserve provenance. If a product’s identity comes from a particular Finnish botanical, Norwegian formulation philosophy or specialist ingredient supplier, we don’t want the UK version quietly reformulated into something cheaper or easier simply to make distribution convenient.’

I ask about the Flow Cosmetics Rose Floral Water since rose otto/damascena is a particular plant ingredient that has been co-opted in mainstream UK skincare; brands greenwash consumers by cutting costs through using an aqua based formula topped with a tiny percentage of rosa. Lucy enthuses, ‘Flow Cosmetics’ Rose Floral Water has an extraordinarily short INCI list: Rosa Damascena Flower Water and fermented radish-root filtrate with citronellol and geraniol naturally occurring within the rose water rather than being added as perfume ingredients.’ She adds, ‘The rose hydrosol itself is produced through distillation of organic Damask rose petals. Flow Cosmetics then uses fermented radish-root extract within the formulation.’ The Flow Cosmetics range also includes hair, body, makeup which all aim to work with the skin and scalp’s natural PH levels.

What are the future plans for Aurora Glo?

‘Flow Cosmetics and Marina Miracle are just the start but are brand selection will be slow and deliberate so every brand has to add something,’ the founders reflect, ‘The ambition is for consumers in Britain eventually to come to Aurora Glo because they trust the curation. They may never have heard of a particular Finnish, Norwegian, Swedish or Danish brand, but they know that we’ve investigated it, understood its philosophy, tried the products and believe there’s a reason for it to be here. Longer term, I’d love Aurora Glo to become as much about discovery and education as retail introducing British consumers not only to Nordic products but to a different way of thinking about skincare: fewer unnecessary products, thoughtful formulations, respect for the skin barrier, connection with nature and consistency over trends.’

www.aurora-glo.co.uk

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‘My approach to skincare is very much informed by growing up watching my mother doing a very simple daily routine – the cleanse, tone, moisturise approach still informs me,’ muses Lisa, ‘so I have become shocked by the beauty industry today and the unachievable anti-ageing messaging being thrown at women of all demographics.’

Like many teens Lisa, now 52 years, suffered acne issues but hers was so extreme she couldn’t even leave the house and as was the way back then she was put on a heavy daily dose of antibiotics for around five years. Lisa explains ‘it had long-lasting effects on my skin I didn’t even realise till later. My skin became very sensitive and the barrier was so damaged whatever luxury brands I spent money on later were just sabotaging it further.’ Later in life at 45 years, Lisa was diagnosed with hyper thyroidism, ‘it came out of nowhere, I began to be too tired to get out of bed and doctors said I might have to remove my thyroid, which I couldn’t contend with – it was terrifying as the thyroid doesn’t just control the hormones but most of the body.’

After tests and a thermal breast examination revealed extreme stress and toxicity in the body, Lisa decided to take matters into her own hands: with thorough research she began to notice the extent of parabens and synthetics in her everyday products and the consumer greenwashing. She explains, ‘a product is technically allowed 1.1% of what I would describe as ‘dodgy’ ingredients so with all these young girls today being encouraged to do 10 step daily routines, you could be sending over 100 toxic chemicals into your skin at that level and those toxins get stored up in the bloodstream going directly to the hormones.’ I started by stripping back to just the purest ingredients I could find being ghia butter and olive oil before discovering the benefits of tallow dating back to ancient civilisations where it was used for wound healing.

In 2021 after months of formula testing, the first product launched, Cow Face Whipped Tallow Moisturiser: a lightly texture moisturiser made from 100% pure (beef) tallow (sourced locally from Pembrokeshire), cold pressed organic castor oil, organic Pembrokeshire raw honey, and pure essential oils of sweet orange, jasmine, and frankincense. Lisa comments, ‘a lot of companies just pour tallow into a jar but we whip ourselves so it creates more air and the texture is lighter for women’s skin particularly if they are going to layer it underneath makeup.’

Tallow has become topical as a skincare ingredient and I am intrigued to find out more since much controversy towards it seems to lie in a mindset that it is used on foods rather than skin. Lisa agrees, ‘the mindset definitely is that it is something for potatoes and I think it is mainly the smell of it that concerns people,’ she continues, ‘we know exactly where our tallow is coming from (100% pure organic grassfed tallow created locally to me in Pembrokeshire) there is no cruelty to animals, it is basically a bi product of animals and otherwise it would go to waste.’ The interest in tallow as a skincare ingredient has come from it being completely natural, ‘our own body recognises it as it is bio identical to human sebum,’ it is full of omega 9, oleic acid, rich fatty acids, fat soluble vitamins.’ Lisa explains her tallow skincare formulas are designed to reach deep into the skin epidermis, ‘castor oil is the most penetrating of all oils reaching three layers deep into the skin and it pulls down the tallow and other essential oils with it which is why consumers using our products notice such quick results.’ Indeed, miraculously after Lisa began only using her own formulations and cut out all of the brand skin and beauty products on her shelves her hyper thyroidism and skin concerns have all cleared up.

As a sensitive skin sufferer prone to eczema, rosacea and inflammation particularly due to stress and somewhat the harsh UV in London, I have been fascinated by the beauty industry discussions around tallow. The Cowface Beauty textures are easy on the skin surface; I have been using the Supreme Skin Cleansing Oil and Revitalising Toner as well as the Whipped Tallow Moisturiser. To begin with the smell is overwhelming: with the Cowface beauty products it is softened down by the essential oil smells though. Lisa explains, ‘the more you try and render down tallow to get rid of the smell, the more you lose the good stuff.’ I am particularly enjoying the toner as in the past I have taken toners out of my routine because I was finding them too stripping. This light texture I carry in my bag and use a little like a floral water too – it comprises vegetable glycerine, organic rosewater, pure clove leaf essential oil and is hugely revitalising for dull, tired skin and balances PH levels for anti-inflammation as well as being a skin prep for a moisturiser or serum on top.

It’s really refreshing to find a brand that is so openly transparent and trustworthy: all the products are waterless so there is no need for preservatives in them. All the ingredients are sourced as locally to the founder’s homeplace as possible which has enabled the brand to be inherently transparent through its supply chain from the get-go.

What are the future plans for Cowface Beauty?

‘New products will be developed from customer demand rather than for the sake of something new to sell.’ The next launch will be a 100% non-toxic shower gel and also a baby product range.

Lisa concludes: ‘I haven’t started the business as a huge money-making venture but as a passion for supporting women, enabling them to understand what they are putting on their skin so they don’t have to suffer like I did.’

https://www.cowfacebeauty.com

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