‘I became increasingly overwhelmed by how complicated skincare had become. There was always another product, another trend, another step you were supposedly missing. At the same time, I kept coming back to ingredients and practices I had grown up around as a Nigerian woman – things like African black soap, shea butter and plant-based preparations that have been used within African communities for generations,’ explains Bukola about the seed of the idea for FLORLESS, ‘I wanted to build something rooted in Africa but made for the world.’

As so many mainstream brands seem to be trying to co-opt ancient wisdoms and rituals through marketing and ingredient greenwashing, I was initially drawn to FLORLESS by how genuinely rooted in African heritage the products are, ‘the core of creating FLORLESS was thinking to ourselves how do we formulate, package and present this for a modern consumer without stripping away its identity?’ begins Bukola, ‘African black soap, our first formulation, is a clear example of a product made and used across West Africa for generations. Shea is another example and then we expanded to bring the consumer into ingredients like moringa, hibiscus and our haircare range which includes both African and Ayurvedic traditions.’

As someone with sensitive skin prone to psoriasis and inflammation as well as fully fascinated by rare botanicals and ancient wisdoms, the FLORLESS Liquid African Soap, ‘The African Deep Cleanse,’ was the first product I tried. So far so great; I have always found many mainstream cleansers to either be too cloggy and sit on the skin surface or too ‘natural’ that the skin isn’t thoroughly cleansed before layering on later products. The FLORLESS Liquid African Soap finds a great balance of a sumptuous texture bringing together goodie ingredients like Palm Kernel Oil, Sandalwood, Cocoa Pod Ash that reaches deep into the skin epidermis for removing of impurities whilst calming a reactive skin barrier, ‘from there we began to build the wider body care and wellness world around it.’

FLORLESS utilises these ancient African practices to take a holistic, 360’ approach to skincare – connecting mind, body, skin and wellness. ‘Beauty has become very externally focused – what can I put on my face to correct something? African wellness traditions often give us a much broader lens involving food, plants, bathing, hair, community and everyday practices.’  The body range includes simple but effective formulas, such as The Glow Oil made from botanical goodness like rosehip, sea buckthorn and tamanu, chosen for their different fatty acid profiles and skin conditioning properties. And a haircare line including the Hair Strength and Growth Pomade and Hair Butter Stick that are easy day-to-day botanical formulas to support hair health without the mess of traditional hair butters. Next came the herbal wellness products that Bukola explains ‘I wanted to make it easy for FLORLESS consumers to adopt simple practices that encourage them to be intentional about caring for themselves.’ So, alongside your skin and hair care, take a few moments to sit down with a FLORLESS botanical tea. FLORLESS ‘A Blend for Bloating Herbal Infusion’ caught my eye as belly fat is directly associated with stress: the apothecary formulation includes wild harvested botanicals such as Prekese (Aidan Pod) and warming Uda Seeds, Calabash Nutmeg, Alligator Pepper for internal ease.

As much as FLORLESS is inherently connected to the founder’s African roots and those traditions, I enjoy how conscious Bukola is not to fall into overpromising: ‘our philosophy is much more about supporting the skin rather than making aggressive biological claims. I want FLORLESS to be evidence-aware and transparent about what a cosmetic can realistically do.’

The future for FLORLESS looks exciting.

‘The vision is much bigger than individual products. I want us to introduce people around the world to African ingredients and practices in a way that feels contemporary and elevated, without removing the culture and history that made them interesting in the first place,’ she adds, ‘We’re growing carefully because I don’t want to build a brand that launches something new every five minutes. I want each category to earn its place. Long term, I absolutely see FLORLESS moving beyond being an online independent brand and into major retail.’

Florlessskin.co.uk

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‘I think coming to skincare from outside the traditional beauty industry has shaped Aurora Glo,’ begins Lucy Rees, ‘we’d spent time in the Scandinavia and wider Nordic region and developed a real affection for the landscape, relationship with nature and their tendency to value quality and functionality over excess. I kept discovering these brilliant independent beauty companies with sophisticated products that were hard to find or unknown here so the idea clicked to curate a platform here in the UK rather than starting another skincare brand.’

On the back of niche Scandi region life philosophies such as Hygge (Danish/Norway tradition of coziness in living) and Lagom (Swedish for living a life of balance and mindful moderation) entering into the modern Western world vernacular, the Aurora Glo founders ‘think there is a very good chance Nordic skincare principles might follow suit.’  Lucy muses, ‘I think consumers are becoming tired of complexity. We’ve had years of very active-led skincare: acids, retinoids, exfoliation, layering and increasingly complicated routines. Those ingredients have a place but I think we are seeing a new direction towards barrier health, hydration, sensitivity and consistency,’ she continues, ‘it’s about being more considered about what you do to your skin so I think Lagom is a great analogy to what we are doing at Aurora Glo.’

After intense research and a growing awareness of how UK mainstream brands are greenwashing consumers with claims around ‘natural’ ingredients, Aurora Glo has launched with a curated edit of Nordic skincare brands. For UK consumers it is important to understand that there is a slight differentiation of ingredient focus in skincare formulas between the Scandi regions; for instance, Nordic skincare often leans into marine extracts and cold pressed oils with the aim of protecting skin barrier from the harsh coastal weather. Whereas Finnish skincare is focused around the local forests’ botanicals and arctic spring water. Aurora Glo has launched with two complementary brands Marina Miracle and Flow Cosmetics: Marina Miracle is Norwegian founded by Marina Elisabeth Engervik who experienced atopic eczema and later sensitive, damaged skin from the topical creams she was prescribed, thus leading her to create her own range of facial oils. Growing in demand from consumers noting ‘the miracle’ of the oils, her bestseller products, notably the Herbal Face Oil, contain ceramides alongside its botanical oils to support dry, sensitive and mature skin types.

As Aurora Glo launches, I am here to talk to the founders mainly about Flow Cosmetics, ‘It is a Finnish skincare brand with a broad treatment-led portfolio. We were particularly attracted to its targeted products around sensitive, reactive and compromised feeling skin.’ All ingredients are natural, traceable and Ecocert Cosmos certified. The Flow Cosmetics formulas also address dehydration, ageing, pigmentation, brightness, cleansing, exfoliation. Hero products include the Ceramides & Probiotics Cream, a fragrance and essential oil free formula with Lactobacillus ferment lysate, jojoba oil, squalane, argan oil, arctic black current oil alongside the ceramides (naturally part of the skin’s barrier structure and help reduce moisture loss) and probiotics. The Propolis & Probiotics Rescue cream, a richer product with hemp seed oil, tea tree and lavender essential oil, sea buckthorn oil alongside the Hikia’s propolis extract amongst others, used to calm irritated skin and strengthen the barrier. And the Hyaluron & Probiotics Serum ‘the ingredient list is revealing of the transparency and precision of Flow Cosmetics formulas; the flower water comes first, followed by fermented ingredients, glycerin, bilberry seed oil and then the hyaluronic component, rather than the product simply being a conventional water-based HA serum dressed up with a Nordic botanical story.’

As a sensitive skin sufferer who has undergone extreme stress and anxiety, I have seen the effects on the skin from poor gut health and immunity so the Flow Cosmetics focus on probiotics in many of the core products was my way into the brand: Lucy explains, ‘We’re not talking about applying a pot of live yoghurt-like bacteria to the face. Flow Cosmetics’ ingredient lists include ferments, ferment filtrates and lysates, including Lactobacillus ferment lysate and Leuconostoc/radish-root ferment filtrate. For us, that distinction is important because we want Aurora Glo to talk about microbiome skincare without turning an exciting emerging area of skin science into exaggerated marketing claims.’

Aurora Glo aims to create a curated edit of brands that reflect the Nordic approach to clean, natural ingredients and longevity but work with modern science for added efficacy. For instance, the Flow Cosmetics Hyaluron & Probiotics Serum combines two molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid to address hydration at different levels, alongside rose water, wild bilberry seed oil and fermented ingredients ‘so the higher molecular weight HA works predominantly at the surface whilst the lower molecular weight component provides deeper hydration.’

As the UK is sometimes referred to for its ‘wild west’ like ingredient regulations compared to the much sharper standards in the EU/US, I wondered if the founders had noticed sourcing or standardisation differences? The founders note that the UK requires strict documentation for brands entering but believe that many Nordic brands such as those featuring on Aurora Glo ‘voluntarily set themselves additional standards around ingredient sourcing, formulation philosophy, certification and transparency,’ they continue ‘Flow Cosmetics is a good example because COSMOS certification provides an independent framework around natural and organic formulation rather than simply relying on a company describing itself as ‘clean’ or ‘natural.’

Lucy muses, ‘We also want to preserve provenance. If a product’s identity comes from a particular Finnish botanical, Norwegian formulation philosophy or specialist ingredient supplier, we don’t want the UK version quietly reformulated into something cheaper or easier simply to make distribution convenient.’

I ask about the Flow Cosmetics Rose Floral Water since rose otto/damascena is a particular plant ingredient that has been co-opted in mainstream UK skincare; brands greenwash consumers by cutting costs through using an aqua based formula topped with a tiny percentage of rosa. Lucy enthuses, ‘Flow Cosmetics’ Rose Floral Water has an extraordinarily short INCI list: Rosa Damascena Flower Water and fermented radish-root filtrate with citronellol and geraniol naturally occurring within the rose water rather than being added as perfume ingredients.’ She adds, ‘The rose hydrosol itself is produced through distillation of organic Damask rose petals. Flow Cosmetics then uses fermented radish-root extract within the formulation.’ The Flow Cosmetics range also includes hair, body, makeup which all aim to work with the skin and scalp’s natural PH levels.

What are the future plans for Aurora Glo?

‘Flow Cosmetics and Marina Miracle are just the start but are brand selection will be slow and deliberate so every brand has to add something,’ the founders reflect, ‘The ambition is for consumers in Britain eventually to come to Aurora Glo because they trust the curation. They may never have heard of a particular Finnish, Norwegian, Swedish or Danish brand, but they know that we’ve investigated it, understood its philosophy, tried the products and believe there’s a reason for it to be here. Longer term, I’d love Aurora Glo to become as much about discovery and education as retail introducing British consumers not only to Nordic products but to a different way of thinking about skincare: fewer unnecessary products, thoughtful formulations, respect for the skin barrier, connection with nature and consistency over trends.’

www.aurora-glo.co.uk

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‘My approach to skincare is very much informed by growing up watching my mother doing a very simple daily routine – the cleanse, tone, moisturise approach still informs me,’ muses Lisa, ‘so I have become shocked by the beauty industry today and the unachievable anti-ageing messaging being thrown at women of all demographics.’

Like many teens Lisa, now 52 years, suffered acne issues but hers was so extreme she couldn’t even leave the house and as was the way back then she was put on a heavy daily dose of antibiotics for around five years. Lisa explains ‘it had long-lasting effects on my skin I didn’t even realise till later. My skin became very sensitive and the barrier was so damaged whatever luxury brands I spent money on later were just sabotaging it further.’ Later in life at 45 years, Lisa was diagnosed with hyper thyroidism, ‘it came out of nowhere, I began to be too tired to get out of bed and doctors said I might have to remove my thyroid, which I couldn’t contend with – it was terrifying as the thyroid doesn’t just control the hormones but most of the body.’

After tests and a thermal breast examination revealed extreme stress and toxicity in the body, Lisa decided to take matters into her own hands: with thorough research she began to notice the extent of parabens and synthetics in her everyday products and the consumer greenwashing. She explains, ‘a product is technically allowed 1.1% of what I would describe as ‘dodgy’ ingredients so with all these young girls today being encouraged to do 10 step daily routines, you could be sending over 100 toxic chemicals into your skin at that level and those toxins get stored up in the bloodstream going directly to the hormones.’ I started by stripping back to just the purest ingredients I could find being ghia butter and olive oil before discovering the benefits of tallow dating back to ancient civilisations where it was used for wound healing.

In 2021 after months of formula testing, the first product launched, Cow Face Whipped Tallow Moisturiser: a lightly texture moisturiser made from 100% pure (beef) tallow (sourced locally from Pembrokeshire), cold pressed organic castor oil, organic Pembrokeshire raw honey, and pure essential oils of sweet orange, jasmine, and frankincense. Lisa comments, ‘a lot of companies just pour tallow into a jar but we whip ourselves so it creates more air and the texture is lighter for women’s skin particularly if they are going to layer it underneath makeup.’

Tallow has become topical as a skincare ingredient and I am intrigued to find out more since much controversy towards it seems to lie in a mindset that it is used on foods rather than skin. Lisa agrees, ‘the mindset definitely is that it is something for potatoes and I think it is mainly the smell of it that concerns people,’ she continues, ‘we know exactly where our tallow is coming from (100% pure organic grassfed tallow created locally to me in Pembrokeshire) there is no cruelty to animals, it is basically a bi product of animals and otherwise it would go to waste.’ The interest in tallow as a skincare ingredient has come from it being completely natural, ‘our own body recognises it as it is bio identical to human sebum,’ it is full of omega 9, oleic acid, rich fatty acids, fat soluble vitamins.’ Lisa explains her tallow skincare formulas are designed to reach deep into the skin epidermis, ‘castor oil is the most penetrating of all oils reaching three layers deep into the skin and it pulls down the tallow and other essential oils with it which is why consumers using our products notice such quick results.’ Indeed, miraculously after Lisa began only using her own formulations and cut out all of the brand skin and beauty products on her shelves her hyper thyroidism and skin concerns have all cleared up.

As a sensitive skin sufferer prone to eczema, rosacea and inflammation particularly due to stress and somewhat the harsh UV in London, I have been fascinated by the beauty industry discussions around tallow. The Cowface Beauty textures are easy on the skin surface; I have been using the Supreme Skin Cleansing Oil and Revitalising Toner as well as the Whipped Tallow Moisturiser. To begin with the smell is overwhelming: with the Cowface beauty products it is softened down by the essential oil smells though. Lisa explains, ‘the more you try and render down tallow to get rid of the smell, the more you lose the good stuff.’ I am particularly enjoying the toner as in the past I have taken toners out of my routine because I was finding them too stripping. This light texture I carry in my bag and use a little like a floral water too – it comprises vegetable glycerine, organic rosewater, pure clove leaf essential oil and is hugely revitalising for dull, tired skin and balances PH levels for anti-inflammation as well as being a skin prep for a moisturiser or serum on top.

It’s really refreshing to find a brand that is so openly transparent and trustworthy: all the products are waterless so there is no need for preservatives in them. All the ingredients are sourced as locally to the founder’s homeplace as possible which has enabled the brand to be inherently transparent through its supply chain from the get-go.

What are the future plans for Cowface Beauty?

‘New products will be developed from customer demand rather than for the sake of something new to sell.’ The next launch will be a 100% non-toxic shower gel and also a baby product range.

Lisa concludes: ‘I haven’t started the business as a huge money-making venture but as a passion for supporting women, enabling them to understand what they are putting on their skin so they don’t have to suffer like I did.’

https://www.cowfacebeauty.com

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‘We launched The Herbtender in 2020 with the ethos of combining deep knowledge of herbal medicine with modern science to create natural wellness products that were accessible, easy to understand and above all products that people could genuinely trust,’ explains Laura Neville.

Today these are still the guiding principles of the formulations which take time to come to market due to thorough research and testing. I reflect on the misinformation and noise that has since grown around ‘magic mushrooms’ across social media and how the founders inherently approach their formulations rooted in medical herbal knowledge. ‘This is one of the reasons The Herbtender exists,’ the founders explain, ‘a mushroom can suddenly become a ‘miracle ingredient’ on Instagram or Tik Tok but the reality is generally much more nuanced.’ To distance themselves from trend driven formulations, Laura and Mark brought on Schia who has over 25 years’ experience in herbal medicine as well as training at the College of Phytotherapy in the UK; her formulations include studies into the traditional use of a fungi, available evidence, how it should be prepared and how it works alongside the other ingredients in a formula. ‘She is now one of three herbalists on The Herbtender team which is really important to us.’

I note to Laura how there is a rising trend online around entheogen and rather dangerous claims about using ‘mushrooms’ as a miracle to cure years of stored trauma. Laura agrees, ‘I completely agree there needs to be responsibility here so we like to make an important distinction that none of our mushrooms or formulations contain psychoactive substances – we use functional mushrooms such as Lion’s Mane, Reishi, Chaga and Cordyceps. They are non-psychoactive and are used to support normal physiological function. There is no intention or promise of creating altered states, extra-sensory experiences or anything of that nature. For us, mushrooms are grounded in herbal wellbeing. We are interested in their traditional uses, their naturally occurring compounds and the growing body of scientific research around them,’ she continues, ‘our approach is much more grounded. One of the things I love about herbal medicine is that it isn’t about finding a magic ingredient. It’s about understanding the bigger picture and how different plants and fungi can work together to support the body.’

The Herbtender range features capsules (supplements), organic drops, organic herbal teas seamlessly utilising the power of the adaptogens and herbs across the products, ‘they support the brain and body in a similar way to adapt however you are taking them. The main difference is how the body accesses it: a capsule needs to go through the digestive process before its contents become available to the body, whereas liquids such as teas and drops tend to be absorbed more directly.’

Choose from products formulated around needs: ‘Energy,’ ‘Sleep,’ ‘Focus,’ ‘Calm,’ ‘Immunity,’ ‘Performance,’ ‘Menopause.’ My way into Herbtender was through the organic drops but others might want to sit with an afternoon cup of herbal tea or take a supplement with your morning routine. The first Herbtender range was the capsules ‘because they are convenient and work really well for the many people who want the benefits but don’t necessarily want the taste of mushrooms and herbs.’

I was drawn to the Focus Organic drops finding that a combination of extreme stress leading to distracted thoughts and the effects of endless screen time was deeply affecting my concentration and attention span. ‘Schia formulates these from a glycerine and water base (not alcohol used in tinctures) which makes them usable by anyone. She has mixed in Lion’s Mane dual extract, Bacopa, Rosemary, Gotu Kola, Holy Basil, Lemon Balm. The final ingredient is Seagreens iodine which we included because iodine contributes to normal cognitive function, making it a natural fit within a formula designed to support focus and mental performance.’

Other enticing formulations include the Organic Energy Drops full of Red Panax Ginseng, Siberian Ginseng, Schisandra, Chaga, Damiana and Seagreens. ‘Panax Ginseng has a very long history in Asian medicine and has traditionally been used for energy and vitality. Schisandra is another fascinating botanical with a long history in traditional herbal practice, particularly during times of physical and mental demand.’

The Herbtender formulations are about synergy rather than one hero ingredient so each component is designed to complement each other resulting in effects greater than the sum of its parts; as a herbal prescription would be created. Laura explains ‘I don’t see traditional herbalism and modern science as competing ideas,’ she continues, ‘for us, traditional use provides an incredibly rich starting point. It represents centuries of accumulated human experience and observation. Modern science then gives us tools to explore those traditions more deeply, helping us understand plant constituents, mechanisms and formulation approaches in ways previous generations couldn’t.’

The Herbtender stands apart as a modern adaptogen brand as they encourage consumers along on the journey of plant, herbs and fungi, ‘the products themselves are designed to make the stories approachable – there was a time when people simply knew which plants to reach for when they wanted to rest, focus or feel restored. The plants haven’t changed; we’ve just become disconnected from them.’

For The Herbtender founders and team they are just beginning with future plans to create more products for ‘people to easily bring the benefits of herbal medicine into their daily rituals.’ She adds ‘we want to keep growing the conversation around adaptogens, medicinal mushrooms and herbal medicine and ultimately show people that traditional plant wisdom has a place in the modern world – that for us is the magic.’

The-herbtender.com

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‘I’ve always had a love of lemons – even my 40^th birthday party theme was lemons – but the seed of the idea to start The Lemon Appeal happened when I started travelling around Southern Italy immersing myself in the ‘masseria’ culture (‘farm to fork’),’ explains Anik, ‘I started talking with an Italian friend and thought maybe I should use this passion in a more structured way, so I moved to a small house right amongst the Amalfi lemon groves for a period of time, meeting agronomists to really understand about the lemon types and the IGP.’

I query what exactly a lemon IGP is and how many varieties there are?

‘They are the same thing you have in wines, I believe across Italy there are seven of them,’ Anik continues, ‘there is no other country that comes close for lemons, 18^th Century German writer, Von Goethe, describes it as il paese dei Limoni (country of lemons).’  Whilst there are varieties in Sicily and other parts, the main Amalfi lemon IGP is the Sfusato Amalfitano, ‘watching the seasonality of the lemons and how they grow when we were living there full time was beautiful; the lemons all come out with different shapes and scars, they are wobbly, so that is how I wanted to form our ceramics in a local family run workshop – I call them perfect imperfections.’

So how do these Sfusato Amalfitano lemons differ from other regions? ‘The lemons in Amalfi are different for instance from the ones in Puglia. I am studying with a local university to see the biological differences but characteristically our Amalfi lemons are thicker in peel with juicier essential oils so there is more to extract.’ The female artisans and craftswomen who have been part of this ancient lemon growing ecosystem are an inherent part of The Lemon Appeal story, Anik enthuses, ‘it is actually a very difficult artisanal technique because the lemons are grown on terraces which are on a steep cliff so going up and down during harvest is labour intensive,’ she continues, ‘women were doing this for generations after the men had picked, pruned and planted lemons, going up and down the cliffs often carrying around 50 kilos of lemons on their necks and singing songs to keep momentum – now its done by donkeys!’

By immersing themselves so deeply in the culture, The Lemon Appeal is rooted in a circular system which aims to give back to the soil and eco-health of the region; the land is not easy to maintain as it is heroic agriculture ‘the viruses of the environment don’t die during the winter months so there are a lot of abandoned groves which are infected so it is difficult to not have your groves be affected too.’  Take a quick look at The Lemon Appeal website and you will come across an ensemble of characters who live and breathe the heritage and craftmanship of Amalfi: Mario, An Expert Lemon Grower as were his great-great grandparents, who warns that many of the Amalfi Coast’s lemon orchards might be gone in a decade if nothing is done, Mr Palma, President of Azienda Agricola who considers the lemon groves as ‘magic’ but has concerns that people are moving away from that line of work because the cliffs are too arduous and the work backbreaking and lowly paid, and hero paper maker, Amalfi (his name), who is still using centuries old local artisanship to create the sheets of pulp the viewers see dry hanging. So compelling are these artisan stories, a short form documentary about Mr Palma’s life and farm in collaboration with The Lemon Appeal won the 2026 Hermes sponsored Gold creative award.

Launching a skincare range around the incredible properties of the lemon juice was a natural fit – albeit much more challenging than it looks – and probably why lemon as a skincare ingredient is rare to come by. ‘The texture has to be right so it is not so thick it sticks to your skin surface or ends up on the pillow and the smell can’t be too tart – we had to take a step back when formulating the scent because traditionally it has been used in household cleaning so is too lemon-y,’ concedes Anik.

As someone who suffers from acute anxiety and disrupted sleep, I find most night creams too thick in texture and that essential oils supporting sleep come in the form of pillow sprays or aromatherapy oils. The Lemon Appeal ‘sleeping mask’ is an efficacious and sensuous blend of the two: the creamy texture seeps into the skin after a long day penetrating into the epidermis to regenerate cells overnight whilst the light but punchy Sfusato lemones sential oil and Zagara-inspired citrus fragrance works to slowly drift you into an easy but deepened sleep. Other ingredients include Vitamin C for skin brightening, niacinamide and ceramides for nourishing and strengthening skin barrier and to absorb the delicate citrus fragrance and hyaluronic with medium molecular weight. And other goodies like aloe, jojoba oil, shea butter. Sourcing ingredients sustainability and maintaining transparency of supply chain is inherent to The Lemon Appeal story – ‘we get the lemon water and essential oils direct from Mr Palma.’

Anik explains that the formulation process was made possible working with local expert chemist Ludovica of family founded La Beaute ‘it took a lot of playing around with testing and percentages around the essential oil to create the formulation.’  Next out will be The Lemon Appeal Day Cream which will be ‘more zingy’ in scent to give that morning lift and will include SPF. Afterwards they will formulate a zero waste scrub product utilising all the raw goodness of the lemon pips, leaves, membranes and so forth.

Touchingly I opened my Lemon Appeal product to a note from the founders written on Amalfi paper made from cotton and created by the local mill – the oldest Western mill still in existence dating back over 500 years. Infact, the prototype used by The Lemon Appeal for their new line of stationery and cards is the same one the mill uses to give their annual gift to the Pope – a homegrown Amalfi paper notebook.

Anik’s vision is to reach all parts of the world with the inimitable story of the Amalfi lemon groves and artisans, The Lemon Appeal will continue to expand with something for everyone from Lemon marmalade, pesto, olive oil, to furniture and more ceramics.

Bravo!

https://www.lemonappeal.com

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‘We live in a world that’s increasingly fast-paced, stressful and full of noise, and I felt there was room for a skincare brand that encouraged people to slow down instead of speeding them up. For me, the gap wasn’t another skincare brand—it was a different way of experiencing skincare,’ she continues. ‘Rather than overwhelming people with countless products and trends, I wanted ATEN to celebrate simple rituals inspired by the Mediterranean way of life and, through the products, encourage a more considered relationship with self-care.’

In fact, the name ATEN is derived from the Ancient Egyptian sun disc, a central deity during the reign of Pharaoh Akhenaten and Queen Nefertiti. ‘I’ve always been fascinated by that period – the symbolism of the sun as a source of life, light and renewal. As well as the seismic influence of a Queen who shaped a completely new vision for her time,’ explains Cher.

With a background in ecommerce, digital marketing and product management, and having discovered that she was allergic to cochineal — an animal-derived colourant obtained from crushed scale insects and used in many luxury cosmetic products — the seed of the idea to bring her experiences together into ATEN was planted. Two and a half years of research followed: ‘I was fascinated by how many ingredients used for generations in Mediterranean cultures – jojoba oil, olive oil, rosehip, sea buckthorn and aloe vera – still hold a place in modern skincare, working alongside newer ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides and plant-derived retinol alternatives.’ Cher Duval adds, ‘I was also genuinely shocked by how different animal-testing regulations can be between markets. China exempts some imported cosmetics under strict conditions, though certain product categories are still subject to animal-testing requirements, while thankfully, it’s prohibited under EU cosmetics legislation.’

She is quick to clarify that ATEN isn’t about recreating a Mediterranean holiday in a bottle, but about a whole experience of self-care: sensory rituals, slower life rhythms and a moment to reconnect with yourself. ‘I think our skin can often reflect what is happening in the rest of our lives.’

So expect a curated edit of tantalising formulations including ‘Oia Renewal Oil Serum,’ ‘Begur Barrier Night Cream,’ ‘Gozo Glow Cleanser’ and ‘Macarella Micellar Water.’ There are also body and haircare blends like ‘S’Almunia Body Serum’ and ‘Cadaqués Conditioner.’

As someone with very sensitive, reactive skin who experiences psoriasis and eczema breakouts mostly triggered by stress but also irritated by the intense UV in London, particularly during the summer months, I have often found serum textures either too heavy or ‘natural’ ones not meeting my expectations for efficacy. I have been enjoying the first-to-be-curated ATEN skincare product, the Capri Radiance Vitamin C Serum, currently one of ATEN’s most popular products. Carefully selected by Cher after finding that her fair skin struggled to adapt to the constant Spanish sun, the serum reflects the kind of formula she had long been looking for herself. The silky texture absorbs easily into the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and giving it a fresh, radiant appearance, with an enticing mandarin aroma that transports you into a dreamy fantasy whilst sitting at my office desk!

My initial way into ATEN Skincare was through its retinol-alternative products. Whilst I understand the efficacy and benefits associated with retinol, I have had ‘horror’ moments where layers of my skin have started to peel away due to its stripping effects. Yet I have found confusion around alternative ingredients, even discovering synthetic forms of bakuchiol sold as mainstream products.

I wanted to ask Cher about her discoveries during her deep dive into plant-derived retinol alternatives. Among the ingredients selected for some ATEN products are two botanical ingredients widely explored as alternatives to retinol: bakuchiol and Bidens Pilosa.

‘Bakuchiol, derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (the Babchi plant), has been investigated in clinical research as a plant-derived alternative to retinol. One randomised clinical study found comparable improvements in signs of photoageing, with participants reporting better tolerability than with retinol,” she continues. “Bidens pilosa is another botanical ingredient attracting interest as a retinol alternative, which is why I wanted to explore both ingredients within the collection.’

ATEN incorporates these ingredients into different products according to their intended cosmetic role. Bidens Pilosa is a core ingredient in the Taormina Cream, a rich everyday moisturiser that focuses on skin comfort and hydration, whilst I have been using the Oia Renewal Oil Serum with bakuchiol. This is a versatile facial oil serum that also features sumptuous botanicals like blueberries, rosehip and evening primrose for a nourishing effect. I have even taken to using it on my hands, where it leaves my skin feeling nourished and looking smoother, with a woody, rose-layered aroma that enables you to switch off and unwind at the end of a long day.

Whilst the ATEN Skincare range products can be used individually, they can also be mixed and matched depending on the time of year and your skincare routine. Cher adds: ‘I apply Oia first to allow the botanical oils time to absorb before following with Taormina as a comforting moisturising step. Whatever you choose, the ATEN philosophy is the same: carefully selected alternatives for people looking for effective skincare with a considered, gentle approach.’

ATEN works with trusted European manufacturers, with a focus on ingredient quality, traceability and the standards required for COSMOS certification. Transparency is central to the brand narrative: each ATEN product is certified COSMOS NATURAL or COSMOS ORGANIC, with ingredient information provided in accordance with applicable cosmetic labelling requirements and certification standards.

What does the future hold for ATEN Skincare?

‘I have a clear vision for where I’d like to take it. I never wanted it to be a brand that sells tons of products or pushes a complicated routine; I want to grow thoughtfully and only introduce products that add value to our philosophy,’ she adds. ‘We want to garner awareness for the brand internationally and, in particular, enter the US market.’ She finishes: ‘I’m equally passionate about building the lifestyle around the brand—a place where people discover not just skincare, but inspiration from the Mediterranean way of life: rituals, wellbeing, nutrition, travel, and the simple daily habits that help us slow down and reconnect with ourselves.’

https://atenskincare.com

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‘My relationship with skincare is very personal due to my early acne struggles which made me want to hide. I eventually went on Roaccutane and cleared it but the experience led me to want to understand why skin behaves in the way it does and that hopefully there could be an alternative to steroids – instead something effective and luxurious but still kind to the skin,’ explains Lisa.

With top level NVQ training and obsessive research into skin ‘and how two people can come in with what looks like exactly the same concern and need completely different things,’ and the seed of the idea to launch Sphagnum De-Lux began. Lisa’s research into Sphagnum moss became impenetrable; ‘historically it was even collected and made into wound dressings in WW1 because of how absorbent it is.’

Next Lisa discovered ‘the history of the ancient bodies found preserved in peat bogs. Some are thousands of years old and still retained remarkably preserved skin and soft tissue. One of the oldest fleshed bog bodies discovered, Cashel Man in Ireland, dates to around 2000 BC. What fascinated me was the environment created by Sphagnum-rich peat bogs — they are acidic, waterlogged and very low in oxygen, and compounds associated with Sphagnum contribute to that extraordinary preservation process. I remember thinking, what is it about this plant and this environment that makes it so special?’

I ask Lisa how Sphagnum vegetation is turned into peat and ultimately formulated into a topical skincare product?

‘The interesting thing is that Sphagnum moss and peat aren’t the same thing. Sphagnum grows in very wet environments. As older moss dies underneath the living layers, those waterlogged and low-oxygen conditions slow down decomposition. Over a very long period, partially decomposed plant material accumulates and forms peat. For skincare, we’re obviously not taking raw peat out of the ground and putting that directly onto someone’s face. The material has to be properly sourced and then processed into a controlled cosmetic ingredient or extract suitable for formulation. So, I work alongside my laboratory who understand extraction, formulation, stability, preservation and safety.’ She continues, ‘what attracted me to the Sphagnum moss for skincare was really that combination of water retention, its unusual chemistry and the long history surrounding it – I wanted to take that incredible natural story and combine it with modern cosmetic science rather than pretending nature and science have to be separate.’

So Sphagnum De Lux has launched with a small edit of easy-to-use products: my way into the brand was actually through their line of sheet masks (Collagen Booster Face Mask, Hydro Glow Face Mask). I ask Lisa how the sheet masks reach deeper into the skin layers in particular with the Collagen Booster Face Mask as whole collagen is a large peptide. She is refreshingly honest: ‘I don’t want to put the word “collagen” on something and imply that a collagen molecule is travelling through the skin and replacing somebody’s lost collagen. That isn’t how it works.

Whole collagen molecules are relatively large. In topical cosmetics, collagen and collagen-derived materials are particularly useful for their moisturising and film-forming properties, while hydrolysed forms contain smaller fragments and can have different cosmetic properties.

So, with our Collagen Boost concept, I look at the whole formulation, rather than expecting one ingredient to do everything. The immediate plumped appearance you see after a really good mask is largely connected to hydration and helping that outer layer of skin hold onto moisture. When dehydrated skin becomes properly hydrated it naturally looks smoother, softer and fuller.

Then you can formulate alongside complementary ingredients that support the appearance and condition of the skin. That’s where I think the Sphagnum moss story fits beautifully. I wanted a mask centred around hydration and skin condition, rather than claiming we’re somehow pushing a huge collagen molecule straight into the dermis.’

Sphagnum De Lux utilises other rare botanicals such as bilberry working with the 100% organic peat and fusing in hyaluronic acid, humid acid, hymatomelanic acid for added efficacy. Other goodie products include the Radiance Max Serum for radiance and plumping– the 100% organic peat moss also full of bioactive compounds and rich minerals reinforces the skin’s natural defense system protecting against oxidative damage and encouraging cell turnover.

As someone who has deeply de-hydrated skin but with oily, inflammation prone surface texture, I enjoy that Sphagnum De Lux inherently places hydration at the centre of its formulations. I remark that many consumers don’t realise that you can have de-hydrated skin under the surface: Lisa agrees, ‘People automatically assume that because their face is oily, they have too much moisture. But oil and water aren’t the same thing. You can absolutely have oily skin that is dehydrated underneath,’ she continues, ‘I don’t want someone to feel like treating breakouts means punishing their skin. And Sphagnum fitted naturally into that story because the plant itself is extraordinary at holding water – I didn’t want it to just be about one hero ingredient though, so I have built a complete formulation around it.’

What are the future plans for Sphagnum De Lux?

‘I want to expand the ranges and explore new formulations. I’m also really passionate about the idea of Glow Diaries — creating a community around real skin journeys. I want women and men to be able to talk honestly about acne, ageing, hormonal skin, confidence and the days when they don’t feel their best,’ she finishes, ‘I would love Sphagnum De-Lux to become a brand that people recognise not just for beautiful skincare but for how we make people feel and to help people feel seen.’ Lisa concludes, ‘I’ve built it from my own experience, funded it from my own work and poured so much of myself into it. Now I just want to keep building it, helping people and seeing where God takes it.’

https://sphagnumdelux.com/

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‘The beginnings of the brand were actually the immediate steps I took to soothe and treat my damaged skin from the wipe cleanser back in 2015,’ begins Jo Merry, ‘I began mixing synthetic free ingredients and found three core products that were efficacious: organic olive oil for its cleansing and moisturising properties, witch hazel as a powerful astringent and cleanser, and spring water to lighten the feel of the blend.’ At the time uncertain about how to emulsify the formulation, she mixed it up and found ongoing benefits for her dry and damaged skin.

Fast forward to full-time phyto skincare training in 2018 with globally recognised phyto chemist, Polish born, Margaret Karlinski, followed by intense research; the founders formulated their first Natrl skincare product, a makeup remover (fully compliant and updated from Jo’s initial formula) using the same base ingredients but adding in a plant derived emulsifier, plant derived preservative and a tiny amount of castor oil to improve ‘its grime grabbing capabilities.’ Natrl skincare was ahead of its time simultaneously creating a small range of natural deodorants – these were not mainstream back in 2019 and the ‘natural’ deodorants on the market were poorly formed. ‘We studied how we could create effective deodorant using only plant-based ingredients and natural minerals, and this evolved into our deodorant gel then airless pump; in the formulation we included a small amount of bicarb, alongside powdered Alum Crystal, Farnesol, Lemon Ester, and rice starch, suspended in a light gel, with Aloe Vera as a calming agent, and Witch Hazel again for its astringent properties.’

As a sensitive skin sufferer who has never done anything invasive yet wants anti-ageing support, my way into Natrl skincare was the Natural Botox Facial Moisturiser – so how does the plant-based formulation mirror botox in lightening fine lines and penetrating deep into the skin epidermis?

‘This has become a bestselling hero product – customer results are beyond even our expectations,’ exudes Ian Merry, ‘it is down to the carefully selected ingredients with the focus heavily on the ‘natural botox effect of the Acmella extract but there is also a lot more precision to it than that.’ Infact, Acmella is an extract from a flowering plant that grows in the Southern Hemisphere, where in Brazil it is traditionally known as the toothache plant and was applied to numb gums and to reduce pain. Ian explains ‘we source the Acmella Oleracea direct from South Africa to ensure its sustainability, in this case it doesn’t actually cause a numb sensation but does contain an important bioactive compound, Spilanthol, that relaxes facial muscles and smooths fine lines rather than blocking nerve signals as Botox does.’ The Natrl skincare Natural Botox Facial Moisturiser however is a complex, sophisticated formulation that also includes Red Raspberry Seed Oil, Tomato Seed Oil (up to 50% Linoleic Acid, key in maintaining a healthy epidermis), and Vitamin E. Whilst Acmella helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, the other antioxidant rich plant oils nourish and protect the skin supporting a healthy skin barrier and regeneration.

I am interested to hear about the array of rare botanicals they use ‘our phyto skincare training gave us experience in how to use traditional ingredients in different ways and also to explore new botanicals and balance them in innovative, effective formulations,’ and how they work to support the skin’s natural microbiome rather than triggering it. They continue, ‘Probably our favourite is Flax Seed Mucilage (Gel), which we believe is one of nature’s most underrated skincare ingredients. It is rich in polysaccharides, amino acids, and omega fatty acids, and has traditionally been used as a hair gel/conditioner for Afro-American hair. However, it is also a powerful humectant and works as a breathable shield on the skin. It locks in moisture (in the same way that petroleum jelly does), stops dryness, calms inflammation, and gives skin a silky-smooth temporary tightening effect. It also gently softens dead skin cells, so they wash away easily without harsh scrubbing,’ they continue ‘We make it by boiling Harlequin Flax Seeds, which we source direct from the farm in East Sussex, in locally sourced spring water, and use it in our Renovating Hand Cream, and our Hydra-Flax Ultra Gel.’

Besides the Acmella extract featured in the Natural Botox Facial Moisturiser, Natrl (Unscented) Face Oil, the Borage plant oil is another Natrl skincare favourite. Prized for its exceptionally high levels of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is closely associated with mechanisms that support the integrity of the skin barrier – moisture retention, improved suppleness, balanced skin texture. The borage oil is also popular with clients suffering from eczema and irritated skin.

Impressively for a small independent start up, the co-founders are intent on sticking unwaveringly to their ethos and to be ‘the leading 100% natural plant-based skincare brand in the UK.’ They remain true to their word so even though they are getting constant demands for a retinol product and have found it difficult to find transparency in sourcing plant-based alternatives, they are currently working on a bakuchiol alternative. And all the preservatives in the products are plant based, palm free and picked to work with the lipid content, actives and function of the specific product.

‘We believe our ethos and the high-quality effective products we create resonates with a new direction in skincare, and our policy of simple, clean and effective is no longer in conflict with the wider skincare industry,’ Jo and Ian Merry explain. ‘Next we will expand our product offering and are looking to move more heavily into retailers across the country.’

It seems like this is just the beginning for Natrl skincare!

https://www.natrlskincare.co.uk

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When Georgina Tang founded YNNY back in 2014 she was so far ahead of her time in creating a white label brand that put transparency and high quality, natural, vegan ingredients at the forefront. Note: all ingredients are listed on labels and the website and tested for allergies (ass her son’s skin will always be the litmus test for new products) ‘90% of people start with chemical based products and add in a very small amount of high quality ingredient because it’s cheaper – I reversed that because my starting point was what would work for my son’s severe skin condition – I use the best oils and they are all traceable back to their roots, whether it be rose otto fields in Bulgaria or wherever.’

Back when I discovered YNNY, the Elixir floral waters were my way into the brand – as someone with a filmmaker friend who had gone to document the Bulgarian rose harvests and pickers, I was discerning about how mainstream brands in the West were co-opting rose otto through synthetics and fillers. Georgina’s approach working directly with suppliers and sources was impressive for an independent brand where others were trying to cut costs – she has implemented the same process with French lavender essential oil sourced in Provence and Lemongrass from Thailand and Vietnam.

As a sensitive skin sufferer who experiences outbreaks of eczema, psoriasis and even now roseacea (with age) during stressful times and extreme heat (I have it now from the heatwave and intense UV in London), I know I can trust Georgina to make products with authenticity and efficacy. I remark how post Covid people are suffering more from damaged skin barrier and broken capillaries; she affirms, ‘Many clients came to me as the last resort after tried out many expensive products that didn’t resolve their skin or hair problems.’

I have been using two hero products recently her Foaming Cleansers and multi award winning Elixir Serum. I find that facial cleansers fall into two categories either two cloggy in texture and sits on the surface or not deep cleansing enough. Mixed with water for a nourishing lather, the foaming facial wash is deep cleansing with soothing properties of lavender essential oil. I start off my routine morning and evening before layering on the Elixir Anti-aging and skin rejuvenating Bioactive Oil serum – it’s been described as ‘botox in a bottle’ for good reason. Initially I was slightly sceptical that a 100% natural oil filled with bioactive goodness; jojoba oil, fractionated coconut oil, evening primrose oil, rosehip oil, Camellia oil, Vit E oil, sea buckthorn oil and GLA rich oils could have such profound efficacy. However, it’s now my go-to serum, instead of a harsh retinol product, because it really does completely soften lines, wrinkles whilst hydrating the skin in a light texture. After such demand, Georgina even created a scented version, Elixir Floral in 2024.

There are new additions to the YNNY curated range: The Enhanced Collagen Booster with Hyaluronic acid awarded by Heather Mills and The Lactic Acid Exfoliator. ‘I created the Enhanced Collagen Booster for myself as I began to notice my hormonal skin sagging and relaxed muscles on my face,’ she continues, ‘I also had lots of requests from white label clients for a hyaluronic acid serum as well as a vitamin C serum too. Therefore, I decided to make a serum with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and vitamin B3 plus lots of antioxidants ingredients such as L-arginine which is a protein like a peptide. So, it became a fuss free 3-in-1 serum as I am always considering my customers and ways to make skincare easier for them.’  Other goodness in the Enhanced Collagen Booster includes antioxidants, aloe vera juice, green tea extract and the rare ingredient, L-arginine. Georgina explains, ‘L-arginine helps your body fight oxidative stress by serving as the building block for nitric oxide and by triggering natural cellular defence pathways that lower harmful free radicals. L-arginine is not a commonly used ingredient but it’s a beneficial one as it is one of the best for adjusting PH levels for natural alignment with the skin’s microbiome.’

The Lactic Acid Exfoliator is designed to be used daily as it only contains a low level of lactic acid for glowy silky skin: I mention that lactic acid is such an efficacious ingredient but rarely used in mainstream skin brands, ‘There are three main forms of acids and one form is called the Alpha Hydroxy Acids. The most common acid used in the beauty industry is glycolic acid which penetrates fast and deep exfoliation, however if not used correctly it could damage the skin and leave skin dry. Lactic acid is gentler that hydrates while it exfoliates without stripping the natural oil, so this ingredient is suitable for people with sensitive skin and home use,’ explains Georgina. The vegan haircare ranges featuring the plant based phytokeratin are also flying off the shelves with YNNY now amassing 20 awards.

What is next for YNNY?

‘I am considering creating a natural SPF product as requested by many customers and maybe a retinol product,’ she adds, ‘However, my main concern is to expand my business to help more people to regain their confidence by transforming their skin and hair.’

https://www.ynny.co.uk

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‘My journey with moringa began during a reporting trip to Burkina Faso in West Africa, where I was covering a food crisis. I was struck by the contrast between communities facing the same harsh conditions. Some were experiencing severe hunger, while others were managing to survive and even thrive. The difference often came down to their knowledge of the nutritional and practical value of indigenous tree foods such as moringa and baobab,’ Angela explains.

Her Guardian featured ‘Miracle Tree’ short film is a visceral way into the moringa story, the origins of Treefoods Natural skincare. The narrative offers an emotional insight into the power of one ancient plant; to sustain children from malnourishment, to restore and transform health longevity, and as a way for ancestral communities to make a living and pass down local harvesting, seeding techniques and medicinal wisdoms to new generations. ‘I have also lived alongside the Asháninka people in the Peruvian Amazon, learning about their relationship with the rainforest, and spent time with Tuvan shamans in southern Siberia exploring ancient spiritual traditions and their connection with the natural world. Again and again, I found myself returning to the same lesson: that indigenous knowledge, passed from one generation to the next, often holds insights that modern science is only beginning to understand,’ affirms Angela.

Having met Thomas, the two continued their deep research into the powers of Moringa (Thomas was already importing Moringa to the West for use in Tea) but they started to seize on its nourishing powers for skincare, haircare, nailcare and as a natural healer for conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and irritated skin. The first product created was the Treefoods Moringa Seed Oil (cold pressed) created from the purest form of the Moringa ingredient. The precise formulating techniques are exclusive to the artisans of the area; the seeds are carefully selected and dehulled before being introduced into a cold-press machine. The oil is extracted without the use of heat or chemical solvents to preserve the natural nutrients and beneficial properties of the oil. Once pressed, the oil is allowed to settle and naturally filter through sedimentation, allowing any remaining particles to separate before the final product is bottled.

Overwhelmed by the response from family, friends and testers, the founders began to expand the fully vegan, cruelty free range experimenting with incorporating the moringa oil into other handmade products; including soaps, cleansing face balm, bath oil, hair and scalp treatments. Noticing that ‘during the natural filtration process, the fine blend of oil and tiny moringa seed particles created a valuable by-product, we started to add in botanicals like lavender and tea tree to some formulations for added efficacy, so for example the cleansers also include botanicals that work harmoniously with the skin’s barrier and delicate microbiome system,’ they explain.

Suffering in the heatwave from a bad bout of eczema and hyper irritated skin from London’s harsh UV, the Treefoods Natural Moringa Oil (cold pressed) has become a hero product for me. The moringa oil is a light texture that glides deep into the skin layers nourishing and calming with a natural smell that soothes a stressed nervous system. I am also struck by its versatility; I have noticed efficacy when used on the thin skin on the hands and unusually its powers also work on my fine hair used both before shampoo-ing or just during the day on dull, dry ends. I have now taken to carrying it around in my bag as a quick way to hydrate during long days. Other products I have tried include the Cleansing Face Balm (Exfoliating Face Cleanser) and the Luxurious Moringa Soap both seeping deep into the skin layers soothing, cleansing and polishing.

As mainstream luxury brands are continuously greenwashing ingredient lists to market formulations as ‘natural’ to a Western consumer, the inherent transparency of the Treefoods Natural skincare story is appealing. Thomas explains, ‘For farmers, moringa offers the potential of a sustainable income source, with leaves harvested regularly and seeds collected annually for oil production. Its deep root system can also help support soil health and reduce erosion, making it a valuable crop within agroforestry systems.’ As the Oyo state located farm owner, he also can exercise full control of the supply chain: ‘at our farm, we plant moringa during the rainy season, when the increased moisture helps the seeds establish strong root systems and encourages vigorous growth. The combination of fertile soil, natural rainfall, careful planting practices and sustainable farming methods allows the moringa trees to develop strong, healthy leaves and seeds. These conditions contribute to producing high-quality moringa, while respecting the natural environment in which the plant has traditionally grown for generations.’

And the diverse benefits of the Moringa plant continue to be discovered: for instance, Angela is fascinated by the plant’s potential for water clarification. ‘Communities had long understood that crushed moringa seeds could help clarify water, and it has been exciting to see this traditional knowledge increasingly explored through scientific research, including studies investigating its potential to remove microplastics from water,’ she adds.

What are the future plans for Treefoods Natural skincare?

‘We are currently working towards bringing a natural deodorant to market. The formulation has been tested and approved. We are also developing a seed extract serum, created from the seed cake that remains after the moringa oil extraction process. This allows us to further utilise the different components of the seed while reducing waste. We hope to introduce this as a nourishing facial serum, while also exploring its potential as a natural active ingredient for haircare products such as shampoos.’

The scope for this 100% natural moringa range seems vast and one I will certainly be watching. As Angela concludes, ‘through my travels and immersion in different cultures, I have come to believe that some of the most valuable solutions to today’s environmental and health challenges are rooted in local knowledge, biodiversity and the careful stewardship of the natural world.’

Agroproduceuk.com

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