Visible Youth x DC
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Visible Youth is the luxury skincare brand based on a unique patented technology, Hyoglass. Dr Asculai, skin cancer expert, and pharmaceutical specialist, Donald Nicholson, first started researching the advanced formulation in the late 90’s; decades ahead of the curve in fusing science-based technology and medical grade ingredients into cosmetic driven skin products. I caught up with Nicholson as he prepares to take Visible Youth into a new chapter.
‘I met the brilliant Dr Sam Asculai in the 90’s working in pharmaceuticals, he was developing a product for age spots – actinic keratosis – which are mainly caused by sun damage and can become cancerous,’ explains Nicholson of the start of the long journey to Visible Youth skincare range. ‘The product was created after years of research and testing to find the best molecular weight of medical grade hyaluronic acid that would reach deep into the skin epidermis.’ In creating his ‘golden calculation’ Dr Asculai began to see that the product not only worked for age spots but also helped to remove fine lines, wrinkles and give users a healthier complexion. So, the idea began in partnership with Nicholson to create a cosmetic based skincare product.
Understanding the powerful properties of pure medical grade Hyaluronic acid – moisturising, high in antioxidants, skin regenerating, collagen boosting – the founders utilised their long running expertise in the field to create a groundbreaking formulation, Hyoglass, which is the core of all the Visible Youth products. Hyoglass is a precisely formulated combination of medical grade HA and bioactive glass (a regenerating biomaterial). Bioactive glass might not be an instantly recognised ingredient but it has an interesting history; it was first created decades ago for injured military due to its wound healing properties and ability to regrow shattered bones. It is made up of calcium, phosphate, sodium, oxygen – all components of the body – however due to its naturally alkaline PH hadn’t been featured in skincare. After intense research, the duo found that combined with the highest quality medical grade HA of molecular weight, the biomaterial could be adapted to the PH levels of the skin. And so, the unique patented technology, Hyoglass was born: Visible Youth is the only range able to use the formula to this day.
‘The efficacy of the Hyoglass formula is a bit like 1+1=3,’ enthuses Nicholson, ‘it can reach into the layers of the skin epidermis at their lowest levels whilst also protecting the skin microbiome due to the matching PH levels.’ The first product created after years of research and testing was the Multi-Peptide Super Serum: as a sensitive skin sufferer, the texture is light but seeps into the skin. I used the serum regularly for about a week and instantly noticed new luminosity and improved collagen boosted elasticity. Other long-term benefits include reduced fine lines and skin firming. Visible Youth enhances the efficacy of Hyoglass technology with additional actives: the Multi Peptide Super Serum includes Maca and oat lipids, the award winning Multi Action Eye Serum adds in Alfafa Seed and Lupin Seed Extract, the Hydrating & Nourishing Moisture Shield features detoxifying plant extracts of Dandelion and polyphenol rich White Willow. Whilst the products have effects used individually, the curated edit of products is also designed to be used together; for instance, ‘the multi-peptide super serum works by enhancing penetration of moisture deep into the skin epidermis, and by using the Moisture shield on top it layers moisture on the surface barrier of the skin, repelling environmental aggressors and sun damage.’
In the intervening years, the luxury beauty landscape has seemingly caught onto the effects of science and patented technology but often grounded in little research and much greenwashing. Nicholson is adamant about the Visible Youth usage of medical grade ingredients – obviously they are much more expensive and difficult to obtain, ‘I am still bewildered when I meet people today who don’t realise there is a difference between medical grade and cosmetic grade Hyaluronic Acid – the cosmetic grade just sits on the skin surface.’
Sadly, Dr Asculai passed away last year but his innovative Hyoglass patented technology lives on: new products are coming next year, the ‘Skin Clarifying Essence’ and ‘Intensive Night Recovery’ – the Hyoglass lies at the core of the formulation. All ingredients are sourced, manufactured and formulated in the UK.
In a noisy, oversaturated landscape, it is reassuring to talk to Nicholson, whose product research is grounded in years of medical experience. How does he think AI will change the game?
‘I guess it’s ability to quickly access and identify active ingredients: we spent years pouring through data sheets and clinical studies. However, at the end of the day, it all still comes down to the human because you’ve got to smell and feel it on the skin to realise its impact.’